Heart shoulder bag

POWERPUFF HEART SHOULDER BAG

Crochet Pattern

Materials

NOTE: Feel free to use any size/type of yarn and the appropriate hook, just note that your

dimensions will then vary accordingly from mine. I chose to use standard milk cotton yarn (thick

weight 3) with a 4mm hook.

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Three colours of yarn – recommended weight 3 or weight 4 (I used a weight 3 yarn which

is on the thicker end, so if you’re worried about the bag turning out a bit too small I

suggest going up to weight 4)

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A crochet hook – recommended 4mm or larger

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A pair of scissors

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A yarn needle

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Optional: stitch markers (you can always improvise with bobby pins, safety pins, etc.)

Dimensions

Below are the approximate dimensions of my shoulder bag – note that this will vary slightly

according to the type of yarn and hook size you use:

Width: 26cm

Height: 20cm

Strap length: 45cm

Construction

Instructions for this project will be split into the following sections:

Creating the main body of the bag

Creating the base/bottom of the bag

Creating the strap of the bag

Attaching the pieces of the bag together

Adding the final edging

Heart shoulder bag visual from source page 1 — Source visual, page 1

A note on the instructions

The pattern for this bag will include tapestry charts for the main body of the bag, the base of the

bag, and the strap of the bag. The bag is constructed entirely of single crochets, so if you find it

easier to follow a chart, go ahead and crochet along with the chart, making 1 single crochet in

every stitch indicated. However, if you aren’t as comfortable with reading off charts, or would

simply like to use the charts as a reference point to what your work should look like as you go

along, I’ve also included step-by-step written instructions for creating each part of the bag. Also

note that I reference the two colours used as C1 (Colour 1) – the darker colour, if you have one –

and C2 (Colour 2) – the lighter colour.

Changing colour

E.g. How to change colour from C1 to C2:

Make your last sc in C1 by inserting your hook through the st and pulling up a loop in C1.

However, do not yarn over and pull through a loop in C1 to complete the sc. Instead, yarn over

and pull through a loop in C2. From the next sc onwards, work in C2.

For example, if the instructions say, “5 scs in C1, change colour, 5 scs in C2,” on your 5th sc of

C1, complete the sc by pulling through a loop in C2. Then from the next st onwards, work 5 scs

in C2.

If the instructions say to, “Change colour, ch1 and turn your work,” at the end of a row, you

would make your last sc of the row in C1 and end it by pulling through in C2, as before, and

then end by chaining 1 in C2.

Heart shoulder bag visual from source page 2 — Source visual, page 2

Note that when you are working in one colour, e.g. C1, hold the C2’s strand of yarn in line with

your row, and ensure you place your scs of C1 over the strand of C2 in order to hide the C2

(and vice versa when you’re working in C1).

A little tip; if you see too much of the other colour poking out through your work, this likely

means you’re not pulling tightly enough – when working one colour, e.g. C1, ensure you pull the

strand of C2 relatively tight as you crochet over it – this will help hide it better!

A final note on changing colours – any time you fasten off a row which has ended with you

holding two strands of yarn, it is good practice to tie a quick knot with the two colours once

you’ve chained one and cut both strands of yarn. This just helps to keep it all extra secure.

Abbreviations used – this pattern uses US crochet terminology

Ch = chain

Sc = single crochet

St = stitch

Ss = slip stitch

Sk = skip

INSTRUCTIONS

if you have any questions at all as you’re going through this pattern, please reach out to me by

you might be confused about.

One final note before you start – I’d recommend sewing in your ends as you go along, e.g. once

you finish one piece of the bag, sew in all the ends before you move onto making the next

piece. This will make it easier when it comes to attaching all the pieces of the bag together, and

will save you from having to sew in a ton of ends all at once at the end of the project.

Heart shoulder bag visual from source page 3 — Source visual, page 3

Part 1: Creating the main body of the bag

Part 1A: Creating the rectangular portion of the main body

Tapestry chart: P1A

Chart legend: black = C1, grey = C2

Begin by chaining 37 in C1, and then follow the chart.

Do NOT fasten off once you finish – move onto part 1B (written instructions).

Written instructions: P1A

Begin by chaining 37 in C1.

ROW 1: [note – place the first sc in the second ch from your hook]

7 scs in C1, change colour, 5 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 4 scs in C2,

change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 5 scs in C2, change colour, 7 scs in C1. Ch1 and

turn your work.

ROW 2:

6 scs in C1, change colour, 5 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 6 scs in C2,

change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 5 scs in C2, change colour, 6 scs in C1. Ch1 and

turn your work.

Heart shoulder bag visual from source page 4 — Source visual, page 4

ROW 3:

5 scs in C1, change colour, 5 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 8 scs in C2,

change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 5 scs in C2, change colour, 5 scs in C1. Ch1 and

turn your work.

ROW 4:

4 scs in C1, change colour, 5 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 4 scs in C2,

change colour, 2 scs in C1, change colour, 4 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change

colour, 5 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 5:

3 scs in C1, change colour, 5 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 4 scs in C2,

change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 4 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change

colour, 5 scs in C2, change colour, 3 scs in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 6:

3 scs in C1, change colour, 4 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 3 scs in C2,

change colour, 8 scs in C1, change colour, 3 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change

colour, 4 scs in C2, change colour, 3 scs in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 7:

2 scs in C1, change colour, 4 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 3 scs in C2,

change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 2 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change

colour, 3 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 4 scs in C2, change colour, 2 scs

in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 8:

1 sc in C1, change colour, 4 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 3 scs in C2,

change colour, 3 scs in C1, change colour, 6 scs in C2, change colour, 3 scs in C1, change

colour, 3 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 4 scs in C2, change colour, 1 sc

in C1. Change colour, ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 9:

4 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 3 scs in C2, change colour, 3 scs in C1,

change colour, 3 scs in C2, change colour, 2 scs in C1, change colour, 3 scs in C2, change

colour, 3 scs in C1, change colour, 3 scs in C2, change colour, 4 scs in C1, change colour, 4 scs