Frog Play Set

Crochet Pattern

This fun activity toy features 5 adorable frogs, a small pond with appliqued lily pads and bugs and a log which opens on

one end to store your frogs and pond.

Size

Gauge is not important to this pattern. The size of your finished product will vary depending on the size of the yarn and hooks you

use. Made with the materials listed, the elf measures about 7 ½” long (including the hat). Using thinner yarn and smaller hooks will

yield a smaller elf. Using thicker yarn and larger hooks will result in a larger elf. An individual crocheter’s yarn tension can also be a

factor in sizing as well.

Pattern Notes

The pattern is written for advanced beginner to intermediate crocheters and beyond. The advanced beginner is familiar with making

amigurumi and understands basic amigurumi crochet terminology and stitches as well as how to sew pieces together, finish off, hide

ends, etc. If you are not familiar with all the terms used in this pattern, there are a multitude of tutorials on You Tube that can help.

Also feel free to contact me with any questions. I’ll be glad to help in any way I can.

Materials

Frogs:

•

Fingering weight yarn – Green (I used Katia Amigurumi 100% cotton) and as you can see by the photos, I varied the colors to

make them all a little different.

•

Worsted weight yarn – The larger frog in the first photo is made with 4ply worsted weight acrylic yarn.

•

Optional: Contrasting colors of embroidery floss or crochet thread for speckles (or consider using a green speckled yarn)

•

2mm crochet hook; 3mm for larger frog

•

Black embroidery floss for eyes, nostrils and mouth (4mm safety eyes if desired)

•

Fiberfill

•

Scissors, yarn needle, straight pins

Log:

•

Worsted Weight Yarn – Brown and Tan (I used Bernat Super Value in Taupe Heather and Oatmeal)

•

Optional: A contrasting color of crochet thread for speckles (or consider using a brown speckled yarn)

•

3.75mm crochet hook

•

Plastic canvas, brown a 10.5” x 13.5” piece which is then cut to a size that will fit inside log

•

Scissors, yarn needle, straight pins, thin permanent marker

•

Optional: Sew-on magnet or Velcro dots to keep open end of log closed (These are the ones I used)

•

Optional: Scrap piece of plastic canvas, or other stiff plastic like from a milk carton

Pond/Pool:

•

Worsted Weight Yarn – Light Blue and Green (I used Bernat Super Value in Cool Blue and Kelly)

•

3.75mm crochet hook

•

Scissors, yarn needle

Embellishments:

•

Crochet thread in yellow, red, black and green (I used #10 size cotton)

•

Size 2 crochet hook (2mm) – adjust hook size to match your chosen materials

•

Scissors, yarn needle

•

Optional: Waterproof fabric glue

Stitch Notes and Abbreviations

•

Ch: Chain

•

Sc: Single Crochet

•

Dc: Double Crochet

•

Hdc: Half-Double Crochet

•

Sc x3: When you see a notation like this, repeat the type of stitch indicated (sc) as many times listed after the “x” (3). So for

this example, you are making one sc in each of the next 3 stitches.

•

(Sc, inc) x6: Anything in parentheses is repeated the number of times indicated after the x. So in this example, you would

sc in the next st, and increase in the 2nd, and then repeat that 5 more times. You will end up with 18 sts total.

•

Dec: Decrease using the invisible decrease method when possible. You will want to make standard decreases when

crocheting the pond/pool so the leftover loop isn’t visible when the mat is flipped over.

•

Inc: Increases are made by working 2 sts in one stitch. If your sc increases are too visible, try yarning over for the first sc of

the increase, and yarning under for the second sc.

•

BLO = Back loops only; FLO = Front loops only

•

Fpdc = Front post double crochet. You will be crocheting around the front of the post of the next st (and not in the top like

standard stitches are made).

•

Fpsc = Front post single crochet.

Instructions

Frogs

I like to make my frogs first, so when it comes time to make the log, I can seat all my frogs side-by-side and judge how

long I need to make the log.

Materials

•

Fingering weight yarn – Green (I used Katia Amigurumi 100% cotton) and as you can see by the photos, I varied the color to

make them all a little different. The larger frog in the first photo is made with 4ply worsted weight acrylic yarn.

•

Optional: Contrasting colors of embroidery floss or crochet thread for speckles (or consider using a green speckled yarn)

•

2mm crochet hook; 3mm for larger frog

•

Black embroidery floss for eyes, nostrils and mouth (4mm safety eyes if desired)

•

Fiberfill

•

Scissors, yarn needle, straight pins

Body (See notes on below on adding speckles)

With green yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

1. Magic circle with 6 scs. (6)

2. Inc in each st. (12)

3. (Sc, inc) x6. (18)

4. (Sc x2, inc) x6. (24)

5-9. Sc in each st. (5 rows) (24)

10. (Sc x2, dec) x6. (18)

11. (Sc, dec) x6. (12) Stuff.

12. Dec x6. (6)

Sl st in next st. Finish off with long tail to sew hole

closed, finish off and weave in end.

Speckles

There are a few different options for making speckles.

Speckled Yarn – The most obvious way to make speckles would be to use speckled yarn. The example above/left was

made with Red Heart Super Saver: Frosty Green Fleck.

Embroidery – You can also embroider small straight stitches after you have your body assembled (see the example above

with purple speckles). Just secure the beginning tail of thread or floss at the inside the body, and then make small

straight stitches or French knots where you like. Secure your thread/floss after you are finished and clip end.

Crochet – The third way would be to stitch them onto the body while you are crocheting (see example above with orange

speckles). Instructions below.

Crocheting speckles is done with random patterning. Or … you could count and make them even on each row.

•

Join your speckle color on row 5, make 1 stitch, then change back to the main color.

•

Carry the speckle colored strand along and crochet over it until you wish to make another speckle.

•

Then change to the speckle color, make 1 stitch, and then change back to the main color.

•

Sometimes the speckle color shows through where you are crocheting over it, but that just adds to the speckle

effect throughout the body.

•

Continue with speckles from rounds 5 thru 9, then drop your speckled color and finish up in the main color.

Eyes – Make 2

With green yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

1. Magic circle with 6 scs. (6)

2. (Sc, inc) x3. (9)

3. Sc in each st. (9)

Sl st in next st and finish off with long tail for sewing.

Using black embroidery floss, secure end inside eye bump. Sew a French

knot or embroider a circle for an eye. Note: I have used a 4mm safety eye,

but the eye bump is tight and it is difficult to get the back on the eye post.

When I did use safety eyes, I had to trim down the post after attaching the

washer so it would fit it inside the eye bump.

•

Stuff eyes and pin to top of head where you like them.

•

Sew in place with whip stitches.

•

Finish off and hide ends inside body.

<-This example is made with French knots

<-This example is with 4mm safety eyes

Feet and Legs – Make 2

With green yarn.

1. (Ch 3, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and next ch) x3. (3 toes made)

2. Ch 1. Sc in the base of each toe. (3)

3. Ch 1, turn. Sc in the front loops of each st. Turn and sc in the 3 back loops on the other side of the same row. (6)

Begin working in continuous rounds.

4. Sc x4, dec. (5)

5-12. Sc in each st. (8 rows) (5) No need to stuff.

•

Sl st in the next st and finish off with a long tail.

•

Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and sew the top of the leg opening closed.

•

Fold the leg in half and sew the top of the leg to the back of the ankle with a couple of stitches.

•

Position on the sides of the body and pin in place.

•

Sew the leg to the body at the ankle, hip, and about halfway up the leg; on the front and back.

•

Finish off and hide ends inside body.

Face

•

Using black embroidery floss and yarn needle, secure yarn inside the body by sewing back and forth inside the

body so it isn’t visible.

•

Embroider the mouth using the photos as your guide. As you can see in the photos, I varied the shape of the

mouth and each variation produces a different expression.

•

Just use simple straight stitches; one long stitch for the straight mouth and 3 for the smile.

•

For the frown, I used one long straight stitch and then positioned it where I liked it and tacked it down by sewing

a teeny tiny stitch at the center top of the frown to hold it in place.

•

Feel free to experiment and make the mouths the way you like them.

•

After embroidering the mouth, add a couple of tiny vertical straight stitches for the nostrils.

•

Secure your thread by sewing back and forth inside the body so it isn’t visible and then clip the end.

Log

Materials

• Worsted Weight Yarn – Brown and Tan (I used Bernat Super

Value in Taupe Heather and Oatmeal)

• Optional: Contrasting colors of embroidery floss or crochet

thread for speckles (or consider using a brown speckled yarn)

• 3.75mm crochet hook

• Plastic canvas, brown a 10.5” x 13.5” piece which is then cut to

a size that will fit inside log

• Scissors, yarn needle, straight pins, thin permanent marker

• Optional: Sew-on magnet or Velcro dots to keep open end of

log closed

• Optional: Scrap piece of plastic canvas, or other stiff plastic like

from a milk carton

Log Ends

Each end of the log is worked a bit differently. You will be closing up one end, and the other end you’ll secure the disk on

just at the top so it will hinge open so you can store your frogs inside the log. You’ll be making two sets of 2 disks each

and sandwiching them together with a piece of plastic between. This reinforces the disks so they will be nice and stiff.

Hinged End

Inside – Work in continuous rounds

With tan yarn:

1. Magic circle with 6 scs. (6)

2. Inc in each st. (12)

3. (Sc, inc) x6. (18)

4. (Sc x2, inc) x6. (24) Finish off and weave in ends. Set aside.

Outside – Work in joined rounds; you’ll be changing colors for each row to create the rings.

1. With Brown yarn: Magic circle with 6 scs. Join with sl st to first st. Join tan yarn. (6)

2. With Tan yarn: Inc in each st. Join with sl st to first st. Join brown yarn. (12)

3. With Brown yarn: (Sc, inc) x6. Join with sl st to first st. Join tan yarn. (18)

4. With Tan yarn: (Sc x2, inc) x6. Join with sl st to first st, finish off and weave in ends. (24)

Optional: Cut a circle from a scrap piece of plastic canvas or other type of plastic that will fit between the 2 disks.

Place the two disks together, with the wrong sides facing each other, and the optional piece of plastic canvas

sandwiched between the two.

With Brown yarn, work through both layers of the disks,

working into corresponding stitches on each disk:

5. (Sc x3, inc) x6. (30)

6. Sl st in each st. (30)

Join with sl st. Finish off and weave in ends. Set aside

until after you’ve created the log.

Closed End

Inside – Work in continuous rounds

With tan yarn:

1. Magic circle with 6 scs. (6)

2. Inc in each st. (12)

3. (Sc, inc) x6. (18)

4. (Sc x2, inc) x6. (24)

Sl st in next st and finish off. Weave in tails. Set aside.

Outside – Work in joined rounds; you’ll be changing colors for each row to create the rings.

1. With Tan yarn: Magic circle with 6 scs. Join with sl st to first st. Join brown yarn. (6)

2. With Brown yarn: Inc in each st. Join with sl st to first st. Join tan yarn. (12)

3. With Tan yarn: (Sc, inc) x6. Join with sl st to first st. Join brown yarn. (18)

4. With Brown yarn: (Sc x2, inc) x6 Join with sl st to first st, finish off. Weave in ends. (24)

Optional: Cut a circle of a scrap piece of plastic canvas or other type of plastic that will fit between the 2 disks.

Place the two disks together, with the wrong sides facing each other, and the optional piece of plastic canvas

sandwiched between the two.

With Tan yarn, work through both layers of the disks, working into corresponding stitches on each disk:

5. (Sc x3, inc) x6. (30)

Join with sl st and finish off. Weave in ends. Set aside until after you’ve created the log.

Main Trunk of Log

At the end of each row, join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Ch 3 and do not turn (the ch-3 counts as a stitch in

each row).

With brown or chosen yarn(s). See options below for making speckles). In the photos below, I crocheted with 2 strands…

one with Bernat Super Value Taupe Heather and the 2nd with Clark Mercerized #30 crochet cotton in a tan color.

Ch 33. Join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.

1. Ch 3 and dc in each ch across. Join with sl st in top of the beginning ch-3. Join with sl st. (33)

2-27. Ch 3. Dc in next st, fpdc, (dc x2, fpdc) x 10. Join with sl st. (26 rows – see below*) (33)

28. Ch 1. Beginning in the same st, (sc x2, fpsc) x11. Join with sl st. (33)

*Check the length of the log starting at about row 22 by placing your frogs lined up along the log to determine how long

you’re going to need to make it. Add more rows if you’d like it longer. Or subtract if you’d like it shorter.

 Too short, add a few more

rows.

Now it’s good! →

Do not finish off. Place a safety pin in your loop to keep from unraveling during the next steps. Weave in starting tail.

Want to make it speckled?

•

It’s easy enough to add speckles by embroidering some tiny straight stitches here and there throughout the log,

the same way you did with the frogs.

•

Or you could consider using a speckled yarn to begin with.

•

Or maybe you’d like to crochet with 2 strands … one with brown worsted, and a 2nd of thin crochet thread in a

contrasting color. Little bits of the contrasting color would show through here and there, creating a speckled

effect.

Plastic Canvas Insert

In order to cut your plastic canvas insert to the correct size, roll it up

tightly and slide inside your log.

Push against it from the inside a bit to stretch it out while still inside your

log so you can get the best sizing.

Take notice as to where the plastic canvas overlaps inside the log. Make

a mark with your permanent marker at that point.

Also make a mark on the plastic canvas at the point where it sticks out of

the log.

Remove the plastic canvas sheet and cut so it is 4-6 squares longer than

the point where it overlapped when it was inside your log.

Trim the length so it is the same length as the log.

Using your yarn needle and a 24” piece of

brown yarn, use a running stitch to sew

the tube together so the edges overlap by

4-6 rows. Start by stitching over your

beginning tail to secure it on the outside of

the log. You may want to pin it in place to

hold it in together for your first few

stitches.

Note: It can be difficult getting your hand inside the tube for

stitching, so just do the best you can for the center portion of the

tube. You can try bending the plastic a bit and going in and out

with one push of the needle. Also, you don’t have to stitch into

every square, I stitched in about every 3rd and it was tight

enough.

Secure the ending tail by sewing into the previous stitches on the

outside of the log. Clip end.

Log Assembly

Attaching the Plastic Canvas Tube

1.

Place the plastic canvas tube inside the log, lining up the

seam of the canvas tube to the seam of your crocheted

log. That seam is considered the “bottom” of the log.

You’ll notice that the plastic canvas is a bit flatter where it

overlaps, so be sure that that flat portion is positioned at

the bottom of your log.

2.

Thread your yarn needle with a long piece of brown yarn

(about 24”).

3.

Start with the end of the log that you left off on (the same

side where you have your safety pin – keep safety pin in

place). This will be the “closed” end of the log.

4.

Secure the yarn tail to the inside of the yarn log.

5.

Use a running stitch and sew the end of the yarn log to the plastic canvas sheet. Sew through the posts of the

stitches, and into the first row on the plastic sheet.

Note: By sewing into the posts, you are leaving the ends of the rows of the log free to work into when

attaching the log-end disk.

6.

Finish off, weave in end.

7.

Repeat for 2nd end (this will be the “hinged” end). This time, begin your stitches near the top of the log

(opposite of the seam).

8.

Do not finish off. Continue on to securing the first log-end disk.

Attaching the Log-End Disks

Hinged End

1. Continue from attaching the plastic canvas tube. If necessary,

feed your yarn up to the top of the log (a few stitches to the right

of center).

2. Using the disk that ends with brown stripe, line it up with the

inside of the log.

3. At the top of the log, use the whip stitch to sew a hinge on the

disk – just at the top of the log (about 4-5 stitches). Be sure to sew

through all 3 layers: (1. disk, 2. plastic canvas, 3. crocheted log

yarn). Test it as you go to make sure it flaps open and closed how

you like it.

4. After securing the top of the disk to the end of the log, continue whip stitching around the end of the opening to give it

a nice finish. Do this by whip stitching into both layers: the plastic canvas and the crocheted log yarn.

5. Secure end and finish off.

Closed End

1.

Place the disk you made for the closed end (the one that ends with a tan stripe), inside the end of the log

where you ended your stitching (your safety pin should still be in that last loop).

2.

Line up the stitches so you begin working in the last st made on the disk.

3.

Remove the safety pin and insert your crochet hook. With the outside of the log facing you, crochet through

both layers (both loops of the last row of sts of the log and the BLO of the disk).

a.

Special Increases* are made as follows: Sc through next log st and next disk st, and then sc in next

log st and same disk st.

(Sc x9, special inc*) x3 (33)

4.

Secure ends and finish off.

Adding the Magnet or Velcro Closure

See below for an alternative idea*.

First, you’re going to need to crochet a little stub to sew to the inside of your log to which you will attach the magnet or

velcro.

With brown yarn:

1. Magic circle with 6 scs. (6)

2. Sc in each st. (6)

Finish off with long tail for sewing. Stuff with yarn ends.

To attach:

•

Sew one end of your magnet pair, or one side of the velcro to the stub.

•

Hold the stub inside the opening of the log. Open and close the log, while peeking into the side to see where the

flap will match up. Make note of that spot and pin the stub in place.

•

Place the other side of the magnet/velcro against the flap. Pin or hold in place and try again to open and close,

peeking inside to assure that it matches up while keeping the flap even.

•

Once you’re happy with the placement, sew the stub to the floor of the inside of the log and the other side of the

magnet/velcro to the flap.

•

If desired, attach a Ch-6 loop to the bottom of the flap so you can grab the loop to open the end of the log.

*Alternate Idea for Closure

Another idea would be to use a shank button (a flower or insect?) and make a loop closure. Sew the button to the outside

of the log, making the hinge on the side or the bottom of the log opening instead of on the top. Then crochet a loop to

match the log color and make a loop to hook around the button.

Branch Stumps (Make 3); 3.75mm hook

Begin working in joined rounds.

Start with Tan:

1. Magic circle with 6 scs. Join with sl st. (6)

2. Ch 1. Inc in each st. (12)

Join with sl st and finish off.

Change to brown:

3. Sl st loosely in each st. Sl st in BLO of first st, Ch 1. (12)

4. In BLO: Sc in same st as joining, and each st around. (12)

Begin working in continuous rounds.

5-8. Sc in each st for 4 rows. (12)

9. Sl st in next st, ch 1, turn. Beginning in the next st: Sc x6, sl st. Leave

remaining sts unworked.

10. Ch 1, turn. Beginning in the next st: (Sc, inc) x2, sc, sl st. (6)

Finish off with a long tail for sewing. Stuff.

Attaching the Branch Stumps

•

Begin by pinning the stumps onto the log.

o

I like to position two of the stumps towards the bottom of the log on each side so they add stability to

the log and prevent it from rolling. I pin one towards the bottom of the left-front and one towards the

bottom of the right-back.

o

The 3rd stump is just for appearances and can go anywhere you like (mine is towards the top front, a little

down from the top of the log so it doesn’t interfere where the frogs will sit).

•

Keep in mind that you’ll want the stumps to all point in the same direction in the same way they would on a

natural log (mine faced right).

•

Test out your log to make sure it doesn’t roll and that it sits nice and flat.

o

Important: Be sure that the top of the log is flat so the frogs can sit on it nicely. If a ridge is centered, it is

hard for them to sit steadily. Adjust as necessary.

•

Once you have your stumps where you like them, whip stitch them in place, adding a bit more stuffing before you

have the hole closed.

•

Finish off and weave in ends.

Pond/Pool

Materials

•

Worsted Weight Yarn – Light Blue and Green (I used Bernat Super Value in Cool Blue and Kelly)

•

3.75mm crochet hook

•

Scissors, yarn needle

Instructions

At the end of each row, ch 1 and turn. The chain does not count as a st.

With Blue:

1. Magic circle with 3 scs (3)

2. Inc in each st (6)

3. (Sc, inc) x3 (9)

4. (Sc x2, inc) x3 (12)

5. (Sc x3, inc) x3 (15)

6. Sc x2, inc, (sc x4, inc) x2, sc x2 (18)

7. (Inc, sc x5) x3 (21)

8. Sc x3, inc, (sc x6, inc) x2, sc x3 (24)

9. (Sc x7, inc) x3 (27)

10. Sc x4, inc, (sc x8, inc) x2, sc x4 (30)

11. (Inc, sc x9) x3 (33)

12. Sc x5, inc, (sc x10, inc) x2, sc x5 (36)

13. (Sc x11, inc) x3 (39)

14. Sc x6, inc, (sc x12, inc) x2, sc x6 (42)

15. (Inc, sc x13) x3 (45)

16. Sc x7, inc, (sc x14, inc) x2, sc x7 (48)

17. (Sc x15, inc) x3 (51)

18. Sc x8, inc, (sc x16, inc) x2, sc x8 (54)

19. (Inc, sc x17) x3 (57)

20. Sc x9, inc, (sc x18, inc) x2, sc x9. Ch 1, rotate mat clockwise and work along the flat edge. Sc in the same st and in the

sides of each row across. Ch 1 and sl st in first st made. Finish off. (about 80 sts made + 1 ch at each corner)

Turn mat over and join green with sc in same corner.

21. Sc across flat edge. At corner, sc, ch 1, sc, in same st. Rotate mat clockwise and work the following all around the

curved edge of the mat: (Ch 3, sc x2) all around the curve of the mat until you get to the corner. Sl st to join.

If your stitches don’t come out exactly even, just ease the last few sts of the pattern to fit. Finish off and weave in all

ends.

Embellishments

Materials

•

Crochet thread, embroidery floss, or fingering weight yarn (green, red, black, yellow)

•

2mm crochet hook – adjust hook size to match your chosen materials

•

Scissors, yarn needle

•

Optional: Waterproof fabric glue

Butterflies – Make 2

Start with yellow:

1. Magic circle with: Sc, dc, sc, sl st, (sc, tr x2, sc, sl st) x2, sc, dc, sc, sl st.

Sl st in first st and finish off with long tail for sewing. Pull circle closed, weave in starting tail.

With black:

Thread a 24” piece of black thread/yarn onto your yarn needle.

Feed down through the top center of the butterfly’s wings

towards the back of the piece (starting where the body will go and

leaving a long tail sticking up between the top 2 wings … the

starting tail will serve as one of the antennas).

Sew through the wings from back to front where you’d like to place a few dots or lines. Sew a

few small straight stitches or tie French knots on the wings and then come back up at the top

center of the wings.

To create a body, wrap black tightly around center of wings from top to bottom, 2 or 3 times,

leaving the starting and ending tails at the top of the butterfly.

Pull body tightly so the wings cinch a bit. Tie ends tightly in a square knot. Tie overhand knots

evenly on both ends and trim.

Use yellow tail to sew butterflies in place, or if desired, weave in ending tail and use the glue to tack them in place. I

placed one on the log and one on the pond.

Ladybugs – Make 3

Start with red:

1. Magic circle with 6 scs. Join with sl st to first st.

Keep long red tail for sewing and change to black

2. Ch 1. Sc in same st and next st.

Finish off with long tail for sewing. Thread the tail onto the yarn needle and sew through

the base of the 2nd black st from front to back. Use the tail to make a few dots on the

ladybug with either some tiny straight stitches or French knots. Weave in tail and clip.

Use the long red tail to sew ladybug in place, or if desired, weave in tail and use the glue

to tack them in place. I placed one on the log and two on the pond.

Lily Pads – Make 3

With Green:

1. Magic circle with 6 scs. Do not join. Ch 1, turn. (6)

2. Increase in each st. Do not join. Ch 1, turn. (12)

3. (Sc, inc) x6. Do not join. Ch 1, turn. (18)

Finish off with long end for sewing. Pull magic circle closed and

weave starting tail into the back.

Position where you like them on the pond and sew in place. Or if

desired, weave in tail and use the waterproof glue to glue in

place.

Vine

With green – Begin with a long starting tail

Ch 15. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook. In next chains, sc, hdc x2, sc, sl st.

Rotate the piece and work on the opposite side of the leaf in the free loops of the foundation chain.

Sl st, sc, hdc x2, sc, sl st in end and in the BLO in the first st on the other side. Ch 1.

Next you will surface crochet with sl sts down the center spine of the leaf, and then sl st in the first unworked chain just

below the leaf.

Ch 15. Repeat until the vine is the length you would like. Mine was about 18” inches long and had 17 leaves.

Test it against your log and adjust length as needed. The vine will have a bit of stretch to it, so you will want to stretch it

a bit so it’s not too floppy once it’s applied, but not so much that it is stretched out of shape.

Finish off with long tail and tack down the beginning and end of the vine on the back or underside of the log. Weave tail

into log and clip ends.

And now your Play Set is finished. Congratulations! I hope you love it!!!