The finished size for the budgerigar is 9.5 * 13.5 cm (3.7

* 5.3 inch). Please note that this size may vary depends on

the yarn and crochet hook size used.

Before you begin, please read the whole pattern carefully.

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Contents

Materials and tools: ………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 3

Abbreviations: ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 4

Parts of a toy:…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 4

Recommendations ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 5

Description ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 5

Leg – make two…………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 5

Head-body …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 7

Wings ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 11

Feathers ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 12

Tail …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 14

Forehead & cheeks…………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 15

Cere …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 16

Beak …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 16

Assembly and design of the toy ……………………………………………………………………………………. 17

Contact the author ……………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 18

Cheat sheet: How to close the work invisibly, round or spiral, without skipping the loop

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 19

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Materials and tools:



YarnArt Etamin: 100% Acrylic, 180 m in 30 g (196 yds in 1.06 oz) – light blue-425,

blue-462, beige-448, white-421, grey-449 for the blue budgerigar, yellow-461,

green-438, blue-462, beige-448 for the green budgerigar. Consumption of the main

color – 6 g, additional – 3 g, and per gram of all the rest.



Steel crochet hook size 1.25 mm (#8 US) for Etamin; (that pattern

will use a hook size smaller than the yarn recommended so the stitches will be nice

and tight).



Fine navy blue/olive green bobbin thread.



Fiberfill for stuff.



A wooden skewer or a toothpick with a broken tips for stuffing.



Tapestry needle.



Scissors.



Round pliers and wire cutters.



Wire for needlework (you can use steel wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm or copper

wire 1 mm thick for feet and bead wire 0.5 mm thick for a frame in feathers);



Textile band-aid.



5 mm black half round beads – 2 PCS;



Moment Crystal Glue.



PVA Glue.



Sequins or beads for spots with a diameter of 2 mm – 6 PCS (you can embroider

spots or draw with a marker).



Thread

for

tightening the tail.

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Abbreviations:

MC – magic circle.

ch – chain.

sl st – slip stitch.

sc – single crochet.

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

htr – half treble crochet

tr – treble crochet

inc – increasing (2 sc in 1 stitch).

dec – decrease for the front loop

(take front loop for the first sc,

take front loop for the second

sc, yarn over and pull yarn

through all free loops on hook).

thru.dec – through decrease (pull

loop through the first sc, pull

loop through the second sc, yarn

over and pull yarn through all free loops on hook).

(…) * n – repeat instructions in brackets n times.

= n – number of loops in a row or in a round.

FLO – front loop only.

BLO – back loop only.

LO – loop offset. If you do not pay attention to the "loop offset" and work according to

the pattern, then the part can get a little curve. These are features of crocheting in a

spiral. In order to avoid the curvature, in addition to the round which we finished, we work

1 or 2 sc from the next row and do not count them, but simply move the marker 1 or 2 sc

to the left.

Parts of a toy:

Leg – 2 PCS

Head-body – 1 PCS

Wings – 2 PCS

Feathers – 2 PCS

Tail – 1 PCS

Forehead & cheeks – 1 PCS

Cere – 1 PCS

Beak – 1 PCS

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Recommendations

The legs will be involved in the process of making the body, so we will do them first.



The toy must be crocheted with tight stitches. Avoid small holes when

stretching crochet fabric. If there are tiny holes, use a smaller hook size.



Stuff the body while crocheting. Don’t use the stuffing material too

sparingly. The frame should not be felt through the stuffing.



The row start marker runs in the center of the front of the figure.

Description

Budgies come in different colors. You can choose the yarn colors based on the photos.

There is a nuance – boys have a blue or light blue cere, girls have from beige to light brown

cere.

For example, I will crochet a blue parrot with a white muzzle and a green one with a yellow

muzzle.

Leg – make two

We make leg with toes on a wire frame.

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1.

Cut 4 pieces of wire 8 cm (3 inch) long.

2. On the tip of the wire, we wind the yarn in a single layer 16 mm (0,6 inch) long,

moisten it with PVA glue and fix the tip with a clip. Let it dry.

3. We don't cut the thread from the fourth toe. Put your toes together and continue

to wrap, forming a leg. The winding length is 3 cm (1,2 inch). It can also be

impregnated with PVA glue.

4. We make the limiter with a pair of turns with a textile band-aid at a height of 2 cm

(0,8 inch) from the toes. The leg is ready.

5. Repeat for the second leg.

We crochet in a spiral.

Row 1: 6 sc in MC, we close the ring, but do not

tighten it! We direct the tail from the ring

inward, but do not crochet or shorten.

Row 2-3: 6 sc

Row 4: (inc, 2 sc) * 2 = 8, to close the work

invisibly without skipping the loop = 9 (cheat

sheet)

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We insert the wire foot into the amigurumi circle, but do not tighten it. Put the foot aside.

Crochet the second same foot.

Head-body

We start crocheting with white yarn with the addition of dark blue thin bobbin thread or

yellow yarn with the addition of dark olive bobbin thread.

Row 1: ch 5, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc on the other side of the chain = 8

Row 2: (inc, 2 sc, inc) * 2 = 12

Page 8 of 20

Row 3: (sc, inc) * 6 = 18

Row 4: (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24

Row 5: (3 sc, inc) *6 = 30

Check that the marking thread runs exactly in the center of the front. It is convenient to

fold the figure in half along the initial chain – then the displacement is clearly visible. If it

necessary, we crochet loops offset.

Row 6-8: 30 sc

Row 9: (inc, 14 sc) * 2 = 32 + LO

Row 10: 32 sc

Change the thread to green / blue.

Row 11: inc, 31 sc = 33

Row 12: inc, 32 sc = 34

Row 13: (inc, 16 sc) * 2 = 36 + LO

Row 14: (inc, 17 sc) * 2 = 38

Row 15: inc, 18 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc = 41

Row 16: (inc, 19 sc) * 2, inc = 44

Row 17: 44 sc

Row 18: inc, 42 sc, inc = 46 + LO

Row 19-21: 46 sc

Page 9 of 20

Row 22: inc, 44 sc, inc = 48

Row 23-27: 48 sc + LO

Row 28: dec, 46 sc = 47

Row 29: dec, 45 sc = 46

Row 30: dec, 44 sc = 45

Row 31: dec, 41 sc, dec = 43

Row 32: 3 sc, dec, 33 sc, dec, 3 sc = 41

Row 33: 7 sc, dec, 23 sc, dec, 7 sc = 39

Partially fill the toy with fiberfill (photo 1).

Row 34: dec, sc, 5 join sc with thigh, 2 sc, dec, 15 sc, dec, 2 sc, 5 join sc with thigh, sc, dec

= 32 (photo 2-3, scheme). Attention! The number of loops in a row does not match the

arithmetic operations, since we crocheted 5 loops per thigh, and left 4 loops each.

Since the bird's body is partially stuffed and almost

finished, we can determine the length of the legs in

accordance with the proportions of the resulting

figure (it depends heavily on the chosen yarn and

knitting density).

Measure the desired length of the leg and above this

point, wrap a textile band-aid limiter in several

layers. The thickness of the stopper should allow you

to push it deep into the leg. Now you can pull the end

of the thread and pull the amigurumi circle

completely.

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Twist the frame wires together, isolate the ends with a textile band-aid.

Insert the frame into the bird's body. Carefully place the fiberfill so that the frame is

not palpable. Press the legs to the chest so that they do not interfere with continuing

crocheting.

Row 35: dec, 4 sc on the leg, 20 sc on the body, 4 sc on the leg, dec = 30

Row 36: 7 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 7 sc = 28

Row 37: 2 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 2 sc = 26

Row 38: 5 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 5 sc = 24

Row 39: 3 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 3 sc = 22

Row 40: sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, sc = 20

Row 41: sc, dec, sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, sc, dec, sc =

Fill the body with fiberfill.

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Row 42: thru.dec, dec, 8 sc, dec, thru.dec = 12

Row 43: thru.dec, dec, 4 sc, dec, thru.dec = 8, fasten off, leaving a long thread for sewing

the tail.

Fill the body with fiberfill finally.

Bend the legs to a natural position. Bend toes – 2

forward and 2 back. Give the toes a curved shape

with round pliers (photo 1). Trim and file nails to

prevent scratching.

Wings

Crochet yellow/white yarn with the addition of

olive/dark blue fine bobbin thread.

Row 1: ch 6, inc, 3 sc, 3 sc in 1, 4 sc, sl st, ch, turn = 12 (photo 2)

Row 2: inc, 5 sc, inc, ch, turn = 9

Row 3: inc, 7 sc, inc, ch, turn = 11

Row 4: inc, 4 sc, 2 hdc, inc hdc, 2 dc, inc dc, turn = 14 (photo 3)

Row 5: inc dc, 2 dc, inc hdc, 2 hdc, 7 sc, 3 sc in 1,

11 sc, 2 sc, 2 sc, continue crocheting in the same

direction.

Row 6: inc dc, 2 dc, inc hdc, 7 hdc, inc hdc, 3 hdc,

sc, sl st, fasten off (photo 4).

Cut the thread, leaving a tail for sewing. Crochet

the second same wing.

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Feathers

Wing feathers should be carefully starched or crocheted with carcass wire. I prefer to

use 0.5 mm thick copper wire in the yarn winding.

Don't be scared! It is easy to wind thin wire. Rolling the tip of the wire between the

thumb and forefinger. In order for the winding to be of high quality, the wire must be

pulled tighter than the yarn for winding. If the yarn is pulled tighter than the wire, then

the effect is obtained, as in photo 1.

We start winding a centimeter from the edge of the wire and wind it to the edge. We

bend the end of the wire to fix the yarn. Now we wind, scrolling the wire with the winding

between the fingers. If the coils are not very tight, they can be moved. Avoid sagging –

the coils should cover the wire in one layer only!

It took me 18 cm of wire in green / gold winding for the wings, 32 cm for the tail in blue

winding. Try to make with a spare so that you do not have to build up the frame.

Attach the green/blue yarn to the sharp corner of the wing along the long side. We

crochet across the crocheting, at the end of the feather attaching it to the wing – we

consider the wing to be the basis of crocheting.

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Feather 1: ch 3, (photo 1) add wrapped wire, sc in the bend of the wire (photo 2), 3 sc, sc

in the same loop where the chain began, 2 sc on the base, turn.

Feather 2: (photo 3), skip 2, 3 sc, ch 3 (photo 4), sc in the band of the wire, 6 sc, sc in the

same loop where the feather began, sc on the base (photo 5), turn.

Feather 3: skip 1, 7 sc, ch 3, sc in the band of the wire, 10 sc, sc in the same loop where

the feather began, 5 sc on the base (photo 6), turn.

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Feather 4: skip 1, 15 sc, 6 ch (photo 1), sc in the band of the wire, 21 sc, sc in the same

loop where the feather began, 3 sc on the base, sl st (photo 2), to close the work invisibly

without skipping the loop (photo 3).

Repeat for the second wing in the same way, without mirroring anything (photo 4). The

difference in the turning rows will not be noticeable. And the edges of the base will be

sewn to the body.

Tail

I also lay a frame wire with a winding in the tail so that I do not have to starch.

Feather 1: ch 25, 23 sc (photo 1-2), 3 sc in 1, 23 sc.

Page 15 of 20

Feather 2: 2 sc in the band of the wire,

then we crochet FLO: 15 sc, sc in the wire,

turn, 15 sc, for both edges of the loop: inc.

Feather 3: inc, then we crochet FLO: 15 sc, sc in

the wire, turn, 15 sc, sc, sl st. Fasten the thread,

hide the end of the thread inside the single crochets.

Bend the base of the tail with a corner, insert the tail into the remaining hole on the body.

Sew on the tail with the end of the yarn left on the body.

Forehead & cheeks

Crochet yellow/white yarn in one thread.

Row 1: ch 6, 5 sc, ch, turn = 5

Row 2: inc, 3 sc, inc, ch, turn = 7

Row 3: inc, 5 sc, inc, ch, turn = 9

Row 4-5: 9 sc, ch, turn

Row 6: dec, 5 sc, dec, ch, turn = 7

Page 16 of 20

Row 7: dec, 3 sc, dec, ch, turn = 5

Row 8: dec, sc, dec = 3

Crochet in a circle with sc, make increase so that

the muzzle will be smooth, sl st, ch (photo 1).

Row 9: 3 sc, ch, turn = 3

Row 10: inc, sc, inc, ch, turn = 5

Row 11: (dc, 5 htr, dc) in 1, 3 sc, (dc, 5 htr, dc), sl

st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (photo 2).

Cere

Crochet in one thread in blue or brown.

Ch 3, 4 sc in 1, 4 sc in 1, sl st (photo 3). Cut the thread, leaving the tip for sewing.

Beak

We crochet in a spiral around the chain by beige

yarn.

Row 1: ch 4, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc = 6 (photo 4)

Row 2: dec, 4 sc = 5

Row 3: dec, 3 sc = 4, fill with leftover yarn. Pull

the hole by the front loops, leaving a long tail for

sewing.

cere

forehead

cheeks

Page 17 of 20

Assembly and design of the toy

1)

We sew the forehead behind both edges of

the loops. The cheeks must cover the color

change step, and the edge of the forehead is

located in the middle of the initial chain of

the parrot's head.

2) We sew the beak with invisible stitches.

3) We sew the cere on both edges of the loops,

bending the upper edge so that the holes of

the initial chain form the nostrils.

4)

Glue the eyes under the forehead.

Please note: the eyes of the birds are

located almost on the sides of the head. In

animals, the eyes are located in front of

the head.

5)

We embroider black spots on the

cheeks with threads, beads or sequins, we

embroider a blue stroke, as on photo.

6)

Give the toes a slightly curved

shape. Bend the tips of the claws with round pliers at an angle of 90 degrees. File the

claws so that they do not scratch.

7) Take a picture of toy and don't forget to share the photo on social networks with the

author's name: «made by Svetlana Kononenko's MK / HOBBY-MK» .

Page 18 of 20

I wish you every success!

I hope I see you soon! 

Page 19 of 20

Crochet budgerigar © 2021 Svetlana Kononenko HOBBY-MK

Cheat sheet: How to close the work invisibly, round or spiral, without skipping

the loop

Pull the end of the yarn completely through the last stitch. Pass the hook through

the first stitch, from the outside to the inside of the work (photo 1-2).

We pick up the tail and pull it out of the loop (photo 3). Insert the hook from the

outside into the middle of the last tied loop (photo 4).

We pick up the tail and pull it out – a smoothing loop has formed. We pull up the tail

so that the loop gets the desired size. Back

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