Delilah Boho Bag

Yarn Selection

I understand that not everyone will be able to use the yarn that I have chosen for this design.

Availability of stock, cost, country of residence, personal choice, postage… are just some of

reasons that you may want to use a different yarn.

The following is some information to help you in making a choice of yarn that will produce the

best results.

Keep in mind that when using a different yarn than listed in the table below, the size of the

project and the quantity of yarn may vary.

Yarn category: I recommend using a Sport/Baby/4ply category yarn. This will create a bag that

is approximately 30cm x 30cm (12in x 12in), excluding the strap and the fringe.

If you want a larger bag, I recommend using a DK/Light Worsted/8ply yarn, however yarn

quantity will vary.

Yarn composition: This design works best with a 100% cotton or cotton/acrylic blend. This will

ensure that the bag will keep its shape when it is in use.

I do not recommend using an acrylic or wool yarn as this will change shape and stretch over

time.

Yarn colour: I like making this bag in one colour so that the texture is the star of the show.

However, if a variegated yarn or multiple colours is your thing, then go for it!

Samples

Below is a table that lists the project information. This table as a guide only. Yarn quantities and

finished project size will vary depending on the yarn and hook size chosen.

Yarn Category

Yarn

Qty

Hook

Size

Sport/Baby/4ply

Bendigo Woollen Mills 4ply

100% cotton, 200g ball

180g/660yds

(1 Ball)

2mm

32cm x 32cm

(12.6in x 12.6in)

Other supplies

For this bag you will need a 2cm diameter button and lining fabric. For more information about

the lining fabric see the Lining section.

Gauge

I have listed my measurements for each round in the pattern section.

For measuring, flatten the piece with your hands onto a flat surface. Measurements are taken

across the widest diameter or as indicated in the pattern.

The listed measurements are a guide when using Sport/Baby/4ply cotton. If your

measurements are different, adjust your hook size or tension as needed.

You can still make the bag if your measurements are different to mine, but the finished bag

size, blocking size and the amount of yarn used may vary.

It is important that you block both panels to the same size.

Measurement

Abbreviations – UK stitches

BL ………………………………………. Back Loop

BP ……………………………………… Back Post

ch ………………………………………. chain

CStr ……………………………………. Chainless Starting treble crochet

dc ………………………………………. double crochet

dtr ………………………………………. double treble crochet

FP ………………………………………. Front Post

htr ………………………………………. half treble crochet

slst ……………………………………… slip stitch

sp(s) …………………………………… space(s)

st(s) ……………………………………. stitch(es)

tog ……………………………………… together

tr ………………………………………… treble crochet

Symbols

( )

Work enclosed instructions in the next stitch/space or in the stitch/space

indicated.

* * or [ ]

Repeat enclosed instructions as many times as specified.

Underlining

Some instructions are underlined to highlight instructions that may be

unexpected or that may be easily missed.

Special Stitches

Chainless Starting Treble Crochet (CStr) – CStr counts as a treble crochet.

CStr replaces the traditional ch3 at the start of a round and produces a consistent look to all

treble crochet stitches as well as disguising the start of the round better.

This stitch is used at the start of every round when the round starts with a treble crochet. This

includes the first treble crochet of every popcorn stitch at the start of the round.

If you find it difficult to master then I recommend you start the round with ch2 then crochet a

regular treble crochet into the stitch. At the end of the round, skip the ch2 and stitch into the

treble crochet to join the round.

1.

Lengthen the active loop to the height of a treble crochet.

2.

Place your finger on top of the loop to hold it in place.

3.

Wrap the hook counter clockwise around the lengthened loop. (The hook will come

towards you then continue around the back of the active loop.)

4.

Hook into the stitch.

5.

Yarn over, pull through the stitch.

6.

Yarn over, pull through 3 loops on the hook.

7.

Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on the hook.

8.

The CStr is complete. Mark the CStr stitch loops to make it easier to find at the end of

the round.

Popcorn (PC) – 4 treble crochet in the same stitch, drop the loop from the hook, insert hook

into the first treble crochet, grab the dropped loop and pull it through the stitch on the hook,

ch1 to close. Ch1 is not counted as a stitch.

Use a CStr for the first treble crochet of all PC at the start of a round.

Notes

Ch1 at the start of the round does not count as a stitch.

The first stitch of the round goes into the same stitch as the last slip stitch of the previous

round unless otherwise indicated.

If the first stitch of the round is a treble crochet, replace it with a Chainless Starting Treble

(CStr, see Special Stitches).

If the first stitch of the round is a popcorn stitch, replace the first treble crochet with a CStr.

Stitches are separated by a comma. Crochet into the next stitch unless otherwise

indicated.

The number before the stitch name indicates to crochet that number of stitches into the

same stitch/space. For example, 2tr means to crochet 2 treble crochet into the same

stitch/space.

The number after the stitch name indicates to crochet the stitch into the next number of

stitches. For example, tr x 2 means to crochet a treble crochet into the next 2 stitches.

Joining stitches (double or treble crochet stitches that join the end of the round to the start

of the round, NOT including slip stitches) are counted as the stitches they replace. For

example, ch1, dc in first tr counts as a ch2 space.

Pattern

Round

Instructions

Stitch Count

Gauge

Magic ring

Ch1, 16dc into ring, slst in dc

16 dc

2cm

Ch1, *dc, ch2, skip 1 dc* x 8, slst in dc, slst in ch2

sp

8 dc, 8 ch2 sps

2.5cm

See Special Stitches for PC stitch.

(PC, ch2) in each ch2 sp, slst in PC, slst in ch2 sp

8 PC, 8 ch2 sps

4.5cm

(PC, ch3, PC) in each ch2 sp, slst in PC, slst in

ch2 sp

16 PC, 8 ch2 sps

6cm

*(PC, ch5, PC) in ch3 sp, tr between next 2 PC* x

8, slst in PC, slst in ch5 sp

16 PC, 8 tr,

8 ch5 sps

8cm

*9tr in ch5 sp, FPdtr around tr* x 8, slst in tr

72 tr, 8 FPdtr

10.5cm

Ch1, *BPdc x 9, (FPdtr, ch3, FPdtr) around FPdtr*

x 8, slst in BPdc

Stitch counts are per

side for rounds 7-17.

9 BLdc, 2 FPdtr,

1 ch3 sp

Measured

ch3 to ch3

12cm

Ch1, *dc x 9, FPtr around FPdtr, 5tr in ch3 sp,

FPtr around FPdtr* x 8, slst in dc, slst in next dc

9 dc, 2 FPtr, 5 tr

13.5cm

Ch1, *dc x 7, skip 1 dc, FPtr, 2BLtr x 5, FPtr, skip

1 dc* x 8, slst in dc, slst in next dc

7 dc, 2 FPtr,

10 BLtr

15.5cm

Ch1, *dc x 5, skip 1 dc, FPtr, [2tr, tr] x 5, FPtr,

skip 1 dc* x 8, slst in dc, slst in next dc

5 dc, 2 FPtr, 15 tr

17.5cm

Ch1, *dc x 3, skip 1 dc, FPtr, [tr x 2, 2tr] x 5, FPtr,

skip 1 dc* x 8, slst in dc, slst in next dc

3 dc, 2 FPtr, 20 tr

19.5cm

Ch1, *dc, skip 1 dc, FPtr, BPdc x 20, FPtr, skip 1

dc* x 8, slst in dc, slst in FPtr, slst in BPdc

1 dc, 2 FPtr,

20 BPdc

19.5cm

*tr x 20, FPtr2tog using next 2 FPtr (skipping dc)*

x 8, slst in tr, slst in next 3 tr

20 tr, 1 FPtr2tog

21cm

Replace the first BPtr of the round with (BPdc,

ch2)

Ch1, *[BPtr, ch1] x 14, BPtr6tog using next 6 tr

(skipping tr2tog), ch1* x 8, slst in top ch2, slst in

ch1 space

14 BPtr,

1 BPtr6tog,

15 ch1 sps

24cm

Mark the 3 rd dc in each set.

Ch1, *dc in ch1 sp, 2dc in next 11 ch1 sps, dc in

ch1 sp, skip BPtr, skip ch1 sp, skip BPtr6tog, skip

ch1 sp, skip BPtr* x 8, slst in dc, slst in next 4 dc

24 dc

24cm

*[tr, ch2, skip 1 dc] x 9, tr2tog using next dc and

next marked stitch, ch2* x 8, replace last ch2 with

tr in first tr

9 tr, 10 ch2 sps,

1 tr2tog

26cm

First PC goes into the sp created by the joining tr.

Note that there is no chain space between the 2

PC either side of the tr2tog.

*[PC in ch2 sp, ch3] x 9, PC in ch2 sp, skip

tr2tog* x 8, slst in PC

Fasten off.

10 PC,

9 ch3 spaces

29cm

2 1

Attach yarn to the 5th space of any 'petal'.

There is no ch3 space between the 2 PC either

side of the tr2tog.

Skip all PC.

I have broken this round down into steps to make

it easier to understand.

3tr in next 6 ch3 sps (photo 18a),

*3htr in next ch3 sp, 3dc in next 5 ch3 sps, 3htr in

next ch3 sp, 3tr in next 2 ch3 sps* x 5 (photo

18b),

3tr in next 3 ch3 sps, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in next ch3

space (photo 18c),

3tr in next 5 ch3 sps, 3htr in next ch3 sp, 3dc in

next 5 ch3 sps (photo 18d),

3htr in next ch3 sp, 3tr in next 5 ch3 sps, 3tr in

first ch3 sp, ch1, dc in first tr (counts as ch2 sp)

(photo 18e)

Total stitch counts

for rounds 18-21.

96 tr, 36 htr,

90 dc, 2 ch2 sps

Measured

as shown

for rounds

18-21.

29cm

3tr into space created by joining dc, tr x 18, htr x

3, *dc x 15, htr x 3, tr x 6, htr x 3* x 4, dc x 15, htr

x 3, tr x 18, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in ch2 space, tr x 15, htr

x 6, dc x 15, htr x 6, tr x 15, 3tr in first space, ch1,

dc in first tr

102 tr, 42 htr,

90 dc, 2 ch2 sps

30cm

3tr into space created by joining dc, tr x 21, htr x

3, dc x 15, htr x 3, tr x 87, htr x 3, dc x 15, htr x 3,

tr x 21, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in ch2 space, tr x 18, htr x 3,

dc x 21, htr x 3, tr x 18, 3tr into first space, ch1,

dc in first tr

177 tr, 18 htr,

51 dc, 2 sps

31cm

No ch3 space

No ch3 space

3tr in sp created by joining dc (mark first tr), tr x

177, 5tr in ch2 sp (mark 3rd tr), tr x 69, 2tr in first

sp, slst in tr

Fasten off.

256 tr

32cm

Repeat the pattern for the second panel then block both panels to the same size.

Blocking

Blocking will give a neat, flat, even look to your project while making it easier to keep the

correct shape.

You can either dip your project in cold water, or spray it with clean water. Squeeze it gently to

remove any excess water, but do not wring or twist it. Pin your project out to the desired shape

and size on blocking boards or foam mats. Allow it to dry completely before unpinning.

I blocked my panels to 32cm x 32cm (12.6in x 12.6in). The size you block your panels to

doesn’t have to be the same as mine, just make sure both panels are blocked to the same size.

32cm (12.6in)

32cm (12.6in)

Joining the panels together

With the wrong sides of the panels facing each other, and the corners aligned, attach the yarn

to the left-hand marked stitches of both panels.

Ch1, dc in corresponding stitches of both panels of the bag all the way around the curved

edge, stopping at the right-hand corner marked stitch. 183 dc

Do not fasten off, continue on to top edge.

Start here

End here

Top Edge

Turn the bag to work along the right side of the top edge of the opening.

When crocheting the top edge, use tension to create an opening that is the same width as the

bag.

Too tight

Too loose

Just right 🙂

Round

Instructions

Stitch Count

Mark the first st of each round.

Ch1, dc x 73 starting with the next tr, dc in the first dc of the

joining row, dc x 37, ch20 (button loop), dc x 36, dc in the

last dc of the joining row

148 dc, 1 ch20

Dc x 148 (moving the button loop to the outside of the bag)

148 dc

Dc x 143 (finishing with 5 stitches left)

Do not fasten off, continue on to the strap.

143 dc

Strap

The strap will stretch once weight is placed in the bag. I have taken this into consideration

when calculating the length of the shoulder strap.

Row

Instructions

Stitch Count

Ch2 at the start of the row does not count as a stitch.

Ch2, tr in same stitch as last dc, tr x 11, turn

12 tr

2 – 61

Ch2, tr in first tr, tr x 11, skip ch2, turn

Approximately 60cm (24in) long.

12 tr

With no twists in the strap, place the right side of the strap against the right side of the bag.

Ch1, slst the strap to the bag with 6 slst either side of the seam.

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Lining

Basic sewing knowledge and skills assumed.

Supplies

crochet bag

paper, bigger than the bag

pencil

ruler

scissors

pins

lining fabric (See below for details.)

thread to match the bag

sewing machine

Lining fabric

Choose a fabric that you are happy with if the wrong side shows through the crochet.

I like to use de-lustered satin for lining my bags. It is a thick, luxurious satin that is easy to sew

and gives some structure to the bag. You may also use regular satin, although I don’t

recommend this for beginner sewers as it is thinner and more difficult to sew.

Cotton fabric is also suitable and is great for beginner sewers.

Do not use fabric that has stretch such as lycra or t-shirt material.

The amount of lining fabric you need depends on the size of your bag.

Measure the width and height of your bag.

The width of the fabric needs to be twice the width of your bag, plus 10cm (4in).

The length of the fabric needs to be the height of your bag, plus 5cm (2in).

If you are unsure, I recommend you make your pattern before buying your lining fabric.

Bag height (h)

Bag width (w)

Fabric width (cm) = (w x 2) + 10

Fabric length (cm) = h + 5

Pattern

1. Fold the strap to the back of the bag. Place the bag in the

centre of the paper and press the bag flat with your hands.

(The photo shows a different bag, but the instructions are the

same.)

Mark the top edge on both sides where the strap joins the bag.

Draw around the curve of the bag. (I used a marker so that it

shows better in the photo, but you should use a pencil so that

you don’t mark your bag.)

2.

Remove the bag and draw a straight line joining the marks

at the top edge (shown in red).

3. Add 2cm (0.8in) above the red line and 1cm (.4in) around

the curved edge.

4. In order to create a symmetrical pattern, fold the pattern in

half sideways and cut through both layers along the green line

that gives the largest pattern.

Draw a grainline along the fold.

2cm

1cm

1cm

Grainline

Cutting

5. Pin the pattern onto your fabric with the selvedge parallel to

the grainline. I have doubled my fabric so I only need to cut once

to get 2 pieces. If necessary, pin and cut 2 separate pieces.

Sewing

6. With right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew around

the curved edge with a 1cm (.4in) seam allowance.

7. Top stitch the seam.

8. Fold the top edge over to

the wrong side by 1cm (0.4in)

then again by another 1cm

(0.4in) and pin it. Sew close to

the first fold.

selvedge

Grainline

9. Fold the button loop down and secure it out of the way.

10. Place the lining inside the bag with the right side facing

inwards, and the side seams aligned.

Pin the lining to the bag just below the top edge adjusting the

crochet as necessary to get a neat fit with the lining.

Sew close to the fold of the lining, being careful not to sew the

button loop or the straps.

Fringe

Cut 135 strands of yarn at 30cm (12in) each. (27 tassels with 5 strands in each = 135

strands).

Attach the first tassel to the 53rd dc of the joining row by following these instructions.

1.

Fold 5 strands in half.

2.

Place a hook through the indicated stitch from the back to the front.

3.

Place the folded end of the strands over the hook and pull them through the stitch.

4.

Yarn over with the strands.

5.

Pull through the stitch and tighten the strands as necessary.

Repeat for the remaining strands in every 3rd stitch around the bottom curve of the bag.

There should be 27 tassels.

Iron the fringe and trim the ends with sharp scissors as needed.

Button

Attach the button to the top centre of the front of the bag.

Well done! You have finished!